Maintaining your Florida yard
The perfect yard is less than ideal if caring for it causes you to pollute the river and the ocean. A good landscape design incorporating the right plants in the right places reduces maintenance requirements and costs. For most yards it will be necessary to perform some maintenance, including:
Composting
Fertilizing
Watering
Mowing, pruning & raking
Mulching
Pest management
From Florida Yards & Neighborhoods, you'll learn some of the basics of nurturing your landscape without damaging the environment. You'll find that pollution-free maintenance is easiest when plants are selected with that goal in mind.
If your existing landscape is too much work or requires maintenance practices that pollute, you may begin to consider changing some plants in your yard. If so, please review the section on landscape design in this handbook.
Composting
A common misconception about plant care is that plants require fertilizer for proper nutrition. Plants do need nutrients, but they don't necessarily need fertilizer. Plants use their leaves to make food from sunlight, water, carbon dioxide and nutrients. Nutrients in the soil are necessary for structure, regulating metabolism, growth and reproduction. Some key nutrients for plants include nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, zinc, magnesium, iron and manganese.
If a plant is appropriate for the soil and site where it is located, it may not require additional nutrients from fertilization. Fertilizers are generally used to achieve a specific goal: more or larger blooms, faster growth, greener leaves or more fruit. If one of these is your goal, you basically have three choices: using compost, applying packaged fertilizer or applying a specific mineral, such as iron.
A great way to improve your soil is by adding compost, which can be made from partially decomposed yard or kitchen waste. When added to your soil it can create the perfect medium for sustained plant health.
Adding compost will
- Improve soil structure, texture and aeration and increase the soil's capacity to hold water;
- Help loosen compacted soils;
- Promote soil fertility and stimulate root development in plants; and
- Create a favorable environment for microorganisms and larger creatures, such as earthworms and insects that are nature's "soil builders."
Generous amounts of compost frequently added to the soil surface can replace petroleum-based, nitrogen fertilizers. And unlike fast-release fertilizers, nutrients in compost are released slowly so landscape plants can better use them. Also, composting or mulching with yard wastes helps reduce the amount of waste that must be hauled to over-burdened landfills.
Composting can be as simple as placing leaves, grass clippings and small cuttings behind shrubs or in a hidden corner of the yard and letting nature take its course. Homemade or manufactured compost bins are another option to consider and will allow you to easily incorporate kitchen waste, such as vegetable and fruit scraps, egg shells and coffee grounds. Numerous types of compost bins are commercially available, and many are designed to be aesthetically attractive. Gardening magazines, catalogs and garden centers are good sources for such products.
The compost pile needs adequate moisture, oxygen and nitrogen/carbon sources to generate the right conditions for decomposition. The more closely these factors are monitored and manipulated, the faster decomposition can occur, and the sooner you'll have rich compost for fertilizing plants and amending soil. Your landscape maintenance professional will be grateful for an opportunity to avoid costly tipping fees at the landfill, too.
Tips on composting
- Bins aren't necessary but they help keep piles neat, retain heat and moisture, and prevent complaints from neighbors. The minimum recommended size is one cubic yard (three feet square by three feet high).
- Composting can take as little as four-six weeks or as long as one-two years, depending on the size and type of material in the pile and the amount of attention you give it.
- Proper moisture is necessary for microorganisms to compost the material. Covering the pile helps retain moisture and prevents the pile from getting too soggy when it rains. You should not be able to squeeze water from the material produced at the bottom of the pile.
- Heat is important in composting, so a sunny location is better than a shady one.
- Combining different materials, such as grass clippings and leaves, in the pile can help achieve the right proportions of carbon and nitrogen for effective composting. Always bury kitchen waste in the pile to discourage pests and to prevent odor from rotting fruit and vegetables.
- Generally, for fastest composting, the pile should be turned with a pitchfork or stirred on a weekly basis in warm weather. Stabbing the pile with a length of pipe or rake handle can help with aeration and mixing.
- Never place meat, animal fat or dairy products in the compost pile.
For more information on composting, please check Florida's On-line Composting Center.
If compost is not available or if you need to fertilize, a basic fertilizer that contains slow-release, water-insoluble nitrogen and other essential nutrients is the most environmentally safe and cost-effective alternative. At least 30 percent of the nitrogen in the fertilizer should be listed as water insoluble. Water-insoluble nitrogen fertilizers usually cost more, but fewer applications will be required. Besides, a few dollars can make a big difference in protecting tributaries and the lagoon.
When shopping for fertilizer, you will usually see three numbers (6-6-6, 15-0-15, 16-4-8, and the like) on the front of the bag. The first number refers to the percent of nitrogen content, the second number refers to phosphorus and the third refers to potassium. You'll need to read the label more closely to find out if other important nutrients are included.
If possible, the first and third numbers (nitrogen and potassium) should be the same. In many parts of Florida, natural phosphorus-rich soils mean you don't need to spend money on phosphorus in your fertilizer. The middle number should be no more than half the value of the first and third numbers. Recommended blends include 10-5-10, 16-4-8 and 15-0-15.
And remember, try to select a fertilizer containing at least 30 percent slow-release, water-insoluble nitrogen. If your garden center does not stock what you are seeking, ask the manager to order it. As demand for appropriate products increases, they'll be easier to find.
Avoid using fertilizers that contain weed killer or insecticide. Such chemicals should be used only as a last resort when lagoon-friendly pest control options fail, and they should be used only on affected areas.
Fertilizer is most often required for turf areas that tend to have higher nutritional needs. If the lawn just won't green up, even after a good rain, first try applying chelated iron or iron sulfate instead of a complete fertilizer. An iron deficiency may be causing that less robust color.
Three common types of lawn grasses in Florida are Bahia, St. Augustine and Bermuda grass. Bahia requires the least amount of maintenance, but it is not salt-tolerant. Bahia also is prone to damage by mole crickets. St. Augustine is often used in coastal areas because it is very salt-tolerant, but it requires more fertilizer and water. It also can be prone to pests, such as chinch bugs. Bermuda, which is used on golf-course greens, requires the most fertilizer, pesticides and water, plus careful mowing. B ecause it requires intensive maintenance, it is not recommended for home landscapes.
When applying fertilizer use a maximum of one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet no more than twice per year (March and September). However, you may be able to use half that amount and achieve excellent results. You can also reduce the risk of nitrate leaching into ground or surface waters by applying one-half pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet four times per year (March, May, September and early November).
Watering
Homeowners in coastal areas of Florida are becoming accustomed to restrictions that limit irrigation to certain days and times. Still, most of us are watering too much. Overwatering depletes our water supply, often makes plants pest prone, and adds to storm-water runoff which pollutes our rivers and beaches.
A sure way to reduce the need for watering is to choose drought-resistant plants, especially those native to your part of Florida, and plant them in the right spots. If you group plants according to their water (and light) needs, your irrigation methods and systems can be simplified. For example, turf irrigation zones should be separate from tree-and-shrub zones.
By choosing and operating a watering system correctly, you can reduce water bills, fungal diseases and maintenance requirements. Remember, the more you water the faster your lawn grows and the more it needs to be mowed. Here are some tips on irrigation that may help protect your plants, your pocketbook and our precious natural resources:
If you have an automatic sprinkler system, install a rain shut-off device or sensor that will override the system when adequate rainfall has occurred. Your water management districts, Cooperative Extension Service, USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service or an irrigation professional can provide technical assistance.
For best results, water in the early morning (4-7 a.m.). This is the most efficient time because temperature and wind speeds are at their lowest and evaporation is reduced. Also, grasses will be less susceptible to fungus if water is applied at the time dew normally forms.
Here's a simple watering schedule for grass: Apply 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch of water when the grass shows signs of distress (bluish-gray color, folded leaf blades). Don't apply more water until symptoms reappear.
Experiment with gradual reductions in irrigation to see if plants can tolerate less water. Some people use no irrigation, yet have healthy plants.
Water less in cooler months (November-March), and turn off automatic systems in the summer if rainfall is consistent.
To sprinkle or not to sprinkle
You're probably familiar with sprinklers -- the kind that are part of an automated system. In some landscape situations, such as a lawn or bed of flowering annuals, that's the best method for applying water. Today, there are systems that allow you to conserve water by using micro-irrigation equipment, such as micro-spray jets, bubblers or drip tubes. If you are in the market for a new irrigation system, find a reputable irrigation contractor who has experience with these systems.
Be aware that drip or micro-spray fittings may clog and require filtration of the source water, regular inspection and possibly cleaning. Drip tape or tubing can be damaged by insects and rodents. Practical advice on state-of-the-art irrigation systems is available from the Cooperative Extension Service and USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. Free inspection of irrigation system efficiency is available in some areas through the Natural Resources Conservation Service.
If you already have an irrigation system your options for retrofitting may be limited. Sometimes low-pressure emitters, such as bubblers, can be adapted to existing sprinkler heads. This may require an attachment at the source to reduce water pressure. If you are changing areas of your landscape from turf to trees or planted beds, consult with the Cooperative Extension Service or Natural Resources Conservation Service on irrigation options. The St. Johns River and South Florida water management districts, and Florida Irrigation Society also provide information on irrigation system selection, maintenance and appropriate watering practices.
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